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Wheels |
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This is the complete wheel before restoration. Before you start pulling it all apart it's a good idea to take some notes on the spoke lace pattern and the hub to wheel rim offset. The spokes on this wheel were in very bad condition. It was impossible to undo the spoke nipples so I just cut them out with bolt cutters. |
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I'm measuring the hub to rim offset. Surprisingly considering the condition of the wheel it was just about correct. The information for the hub offset is available through may sources on the internet. |
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Here I'm checking the hub bearings for correct setting. Rather than explain how it's all done, go to Duane Aushermans web site, he does a much better job of explaining it all than I ever could. That's where I got all the information I needed to do the job. |
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This is the front break plate. I've re lined the break shoes using copper rivets. Some people glue the break lining to the shoes, however, I've then heard that it's very difficult the remove the old lining when they need doing again. If bought from one of the BMW dealers the break lining and the rivets come in a kit. The break lining are already formed there is no need to cut them to length from a strip of break material |
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This is the complete hub with front break plate. I've set the hub and axle in the vise and torqued it up the correct amount, 20ft/lb just to see if all is well |
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I had the rims polished. This is the first row of spokes going in. There is a ton of information on re spoking wheels on the internet. Including a video from Ed Korn. |
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Hard at work putting in the last row of spokes before setting the wheel up on the axle to be trued. |
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I set the wheel up in the vise and you can just make out in the back the dial gauge stand. These rims have been quite beaten up over the years so it was difficult to find a place to true the rims. I'm still not quite happy with the job that I have done. I may eventually take them to an expert to set and true them correctly. |
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