ENGINE PAGE 2
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THE CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder base surface has been skimmed to bring it back to flat, new valve guides, new valve seats and new valves. My only concern is that when the new seats were pressed in it caused a crack to develop between the valve seat and the spark plug hole. Apparently it's quite common. There are conflicting opinion on whether it's a major problem. My only concern is if the valve seat falls out. As I said some say that it won't and some say that it may. I'll run with it and hope for the best. The homemade valve compressor in action.
CYLINDER HEAD
Homemade valve compressor works quite well.
ENGINE CASE
This is the result after a lot of "elbow grease". I decided on not having the case bead blasted. Once again there are differing opinions on whether bead blasting should be employed. It's almost impossible to keep out the entire blasting medium, even with thorough masking. Any fine grain of glass, aluminum oxide or what ever your using could chew out a bearing in no time. I used WD40 and scotch brite pads. A lot of work but the results are quite good as you can see.
ENGINE CRANK RUN OUT
I had the crank rebuilt, new connecting rod, big end bearing and con rod pin. The crank webs must be pressed off and on to replace with the new rod. After the crank has been assembled the run out should be checked before it's installed in the case. However, it's also important that after re-assembly that the run out be checked again. This is because the rotor for the generator is attached to the end of the crank. If the rotor does not run centrally to the generator stator you're going to have problems. Here I'm just checking the run out to see if all is well.
